Austria- skis on!

The snow had fallen hard all night. By morning all my worries on the drive over were put to rest- there was more than enough snow to ski! Strapping on ski boots, fitting those helmets, trudging down the road with that funky walk unique to winter sport (think of a drunk lizard). First up on the first lift.

Icicles glistened in the morning sun, rainbows dancing on their surface. As the ski lift climbed higher,  the towering peaks of the Alps glowed pinky-peach in the sunrise. Pine trees were dusted with powdered-sugar like snow, which they would shake to the floor when the wind blew. My skis made fresh tracks in the untouched powder; it was hard not to grin happily at the bottom. We knew we had at least an hour like this before the hordes arrived.

Its that time of year, when snow forecasts for the popular resorts are scrutinized, ski boots are pulled out, insurance policies are triple-checked (or not). Its ski season! Our ski resort of choice was Seefeld in Austria- we’ve visited five times. There are a few reasons for our loyalty which I shall share with you.

First- its one of the most snow sure resorts in Europe. Many times we’ve driven up, through green and brown pasture wondering where all the snow was. Then you climb, higher and higher, past lakes glistening in the sunshine, their surfaces reflecting jagged peaks, to Seefeld, where everything is white. Either way, one night of heavy snowfall and there’s enough to last all week, since there are snowblowers to distribute the powder on the slopes.

 Second reason- the accommodation. We always stay in Haus Excelsior, a beautiful, authentic Austrian timbered house. Its cosy, close to the slopes and always warm, plus you can store all your gear right there, and they allow pets, so Prune has enjoyed a stay here too! The perfect place to come back to after a day on the slopes.

Third reason- the skiing. There is something for everyone- beginners have plenty of options, with slopes right in the centre that are perfect to build confidence and nail that snow-plough, as well as more challenging slopes to practice technique. The towering Alps provide advanced and intermediate skiers with more challenging runs, plus there is even night skiing on offer for the truly foolhardy.

Fourth- the instructors. These guys are amazing and the only reason I ever progressed in skiing. The Schischule dominates, with most instructors able to speak English and they offer both private and group lessons for all abilities. They really make learning fun- one guy once made me throw and catch a snowball with him as we skied down!

Fifth- its beautiful. Unlike so many resorts which just cater to mass tourism and so are full of ugly high-rises, Seefeld is a real chocolate-box perfect Alpine village. From its cute centre full of shops in traditional buildings, to the surrounding woodlands covered in pine trees, all watched over by those majestic Alpine peaks.

The sun sinks lower, buttering the peaks in warm afternoon light. The sound of laugher floats up to us, along with some cheesy Euro-pop lyrics; the party’s already getting started down below. First up, last down. “Last run?” asks Dad. We reluctantly agree. We’ve already pushed in three extra ‘last runs’. Dad’s off, whizzing down, the pro that he is. We follow, slower, more focused, but also tired. I look back at the ski lift. Some people are sneaking in an another run! I almost suggest we do the same, then remember that perfect morning we had; we need to be first up tomorrow. I snap off my skiis and follow the others, my mind now on hot showers and warm food.

Practical stuff:

Getting here- Innsbruck is about 40 minutes away by car and has an airport. Otherwise, drive, like we always did from anywhere in Europe. The last bit through the mountains is especially epic but be careful of avalanches (no joke) and be prepared for huge tailbacks in the peak season. Make sure your car has snow chains!

Staying- We always stay in Haus Excelsior, but there are lots of options. You can choose to self cater and stay in a traditional style timbered house, or go glam and stay in one of the fancy hotels with spas and swimming pools (Manchester United’s preferred hotel is here).

Skiing- The main slopes are handily in the centre, and the others can be reached easily by bus. You can book lessons with the Schischule, their office is located in town itself. As I said, skiing is almost always possible due to the snow blowers the resort has. You can check out the snow situation on their webcam anyway on this website. Most of the ski lifts open at 9:30 am, aim to be there for that if you want half an hour of quiet before the schools arrive. They close around 16:30 pm.

Other things to do- Beyond skiing, Seefeld has lots to do. You can go iceskating, swim in the indoor pool, go cross-country skiing or shop in the centre which is full of fancy outlets stocking designer ski gear.

Food- The Spar supermarket is really well-stocked, perfect if you are self-catering. There are lots of restaurants and pizzerias for dinner options. The apres- ski scene is not tooooo wild here, but there a couple of places that get jumping in the evenings in town.

Top hack- Go now! Seefeld is slowly becoming better known and as a result more expensive. Go before it turns into another Verbier…

Although I won’t be skiing this year and haven’t for a while, writing this has made me yearn to get back on the slopes like the good old days… maybe next year. Thanks to Maya as always for the beautiful photos, and for dad for being our winter sport partner in crime!