The Bahamas- swimming with wild dolphins

Since as long as I can remember, one of my biggest dreams was to swim with dolphins. I know lots of people have this on their bucket-list, but I always had doubts about dolphins kept in captivity just so we could enjoy ourselves. At the same time, after I visited Zanzibar, I saw how badly swimming with dolphins in the wild can go too. That’s why I was so happy to have found Wildquest, on Bimini island in The Bahamas, a little tropical paradise where you can swim with wild dolphins responsibly. For my 20th birthday present, I got to visit and make my dream a reality!

The week started in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, where I met the other members of The Pod, as the group is known- everyone is there to experience the dolphins and their magic. I was so excited I barely slept that night, and with jet lag meant I was more than wide awake for the 6am start. We had a short drive to Fort Lauderdale’s airport for our flight to Bimini. A tiny prop plane was to fly us to Bimini… quite an experience in itself, especially since I got to play copilot! Seeing hundreds of shades of blue, from the deepest indigo to a pale powder blue as we flew low over the ocean was pretty special.

 We arrived in Bimini, to swaying palm trees and a tiny airport full of cheerful staff. Tropical sunshine and humidity greeted me as I stepped on to the tarmac, and Amlas and Atmos, the owners/ leaders of Wildquest were there to pick us up. I was on my first ever solo trip, so I was sharing a room but luckily my roommate turned out to be super sweet! In fact, everyone there was amazing, I was worried I would be lonely having come on my own but I never was, you really do become a human pod for the week and I got to know some incredible people, some of whom I am still in touch with.

The special thing about Wildquest is that they have their own boat; an epic catamaran with more than enough space for all of us, and white squishy seats to relax on, so we could spend most of the day searching for dolphins but return to the retreat at night to relax instead of having to stay on the boat. Having a hot shower at the end of each day was a luxury I wasn’t expecting.

Mornings were for quiet contemplation. The sun would rise slowly, turning the sky candy floss pink, then lilac, then magenta before rising up into a cornflower blue sky. It would then be time for yoga (this is where I discovered how much I love it). White, tropical sunlight would shine through the studio- it was the perfect way to start the day. Breakfast time followed- there was always a good spread, perfect fuel for a day with the dolphins! And we got to eat outside on communal tables, a great way to chat and enjoy our meals. In general, all the meals were delicious, with loads of healthy options (the home-made peanut butter was amazing)!

We would pack a lunch to take on the boat (it was all really well organized- we each had our own lunchbox and water bottle) and then we would set off. Everyone chose a spot on the boat to stretch out and tan whilst we waited for the dolphins. We would also stop off along the way to snorkel- it was my first time and I was blown away by the beauty of the underwater world. It was so fun to see little fish, in every colour of the rainbow swim past and paddle after them, mastering the use of my flippers.

But nothing prepared me for my first swim with the dolphins. One of the skippers spotted some fins far away, and all hell broke loose on board with all of us running around, madly trying to find our snorkels, our flippers and make our way to the stairs. I couldn’t believe it was about to happen. I sat on the stairs desperately trying to get my snorkel mask on tight, waiting for the OK to enter the water.

This was the moment I’d been waiting for.

Finally, I slipped in (as gracefully as a walrus I’m sure), feeling the deep blue Atlantic enclose me (much colder than expected, it was only May I guess). Dolphins. Everywhere. They were at least 20 of them, a huge pod of mothers, babies, brothers and sisters all splashing, diving, playing and letting us join in! Some swam so close, inviting you to swim next to them. I could see the scars on one’s body, the playful glints in their eyes. It was so sublime, seeing them diving down in the perfectly clear water, right to the ocean floor, then watching them swim up through the depths, to be next to you.

I almost laughed, I couldn’t believe this was really happening- I was playing with wild dolphins in the middle of the ocean, as sunbeams dappled the water around me. We followed this huge pod and had a couple more swims with them. I was so elated, climbing out and drying off, I think I sat there grinning like an idiot the whole way back! I didn’t even feel the cold wind on my wet skin, although the pod did insist on wrapping me up in a large towel.

Each day when we got close to the retreat, we had the option to jump off the boat and swim to a beach close by and then walk back. Did I take the option? Hell yeah! It was fun bobbing in the waves watching the boat grow smaller on the horizon and slowly backstroking to shore, letting the waves do the work.

It was another time it was hard to believe this was me- jumping off a yacht into the topaz-blue in the Caribbean- wow!

Bimini itself is a funky place, with bubblegum pink and sunshine yellow ramshackle houses, chilled-out locals and friendly stray dogs wandering the sandy streets. Quite the quintessential Caribbean island. Some mornings I biked to the other end, taking in the sea views. Everyone on Bimini was so friendly and laid back. And clearly the dolphins were important to them to, as a conversation with a local conch fisherman shows: ‘Dolphins? Na, we don’t eat dolphins. They’re our friends, we play with them!”

Most days I would walk to the tiny beach nearby. I’ve never seen a beach so perfect- a custard coloured smile washed by those turquoise waves. I would have Sandy (Wildquest’s adopted hound) for company, and we’d just chill there awhile. I also tried kayaking with Sandy (the human this time) which was fun, we spotted tons of starfish. We also visited the Healing hole– a place deep in the mangroves. It was fun but there were way too many mosquitoes, those things seek me out wherever I go. But clambering through the mangroves as the sun cast a greenish light through felt otherworldly and was quite an interesting experience. As was Eby (the owner of the next-door cafe who took us in his boat) and his opera singing!

One night we all went to a local place for dinner and dancing. Although it was pouring with rain, we all danced along to the live band, got soaked but had a lot more fun than any of the other restaurant goers! Speaking of rain, we had one hell of an epic thunderstorm one afternoon out on the boat, miles from shore. We literally had to ride it out; quite an experience, white capped six-foot waves and lightning all around. Some of us went out on deck to be in the middle of the storm, just putting the ‘wild’ into Wildquest, as one pod member put it! Jumping off the boat to swim to shore that day is something I’ll never forget, as lightning lit up the sky and huge waves washed us to the beach.

But of course, its the dolphins I come back to. And luckily, on our last day, they came back to me. We hadn’t seen any for ages when finally, we spotted three mothers, each with their own baby! We followed this adorable pod for a while, I sat with my legs swinging over the water, watching them dart through the waves below me. Then we got to swim with them! The baby was so curious, he came up close to say hi and his mum seemed to know we were harmless, it was so special to be allowed so close to her baby. After they swam away, I just floated there for a while, in the middle of the deep blue, keeping hold of that moment for a while longer. A day I’d never forget. Actually, make that a week.

The trip taught me a lot- about the power of the bonds we make, both with humans and animals. And about living in the moment, without regrets or over-thinking, whether that’s trying conch salad, jumping into the ocean in the middle of a storm or being open to meeting new people. Its definitely one of the best souvenirs I’ve brought home.

Practical stuff:

Getting here– You have to start in Fort Lauderdale, so for me that meant a flight to Miami and then a taxi over. One night’s accommodation at the Hilton Bahia Mar comes as part of the Wildquest package. They have a nice pool and large rooms, a good place to relax before and maybe after Bimini.

Food, accommodation, transport to Bimini and back and all activities are included in the package. All the food provided is amazing- mostly gluten free, vegetarian and organic. Good for the health nuts among us. The rooms are all doubles, so be prepared for a room mate or opt for your own room (but it costs extra). You don’t have to take part in anything if you don’t want to, but you will! Everyone is so open and fun, you will be swept along!

Other points– The Wildquest website is super detailed and has answers to all questions and more. I visited in May, the water was still very cold so bring a rash guard. Be aware that June onwards is hurricane season in the Bahamas but storms can hit any time (I should know). In case you’re wondering- I mostly swam with Atlantic spotted dolphins, but there were sometimes a few bottle noses mixed in with the pod. Spotted dolphins aren’t that big either, which surprised me. I learned a lot about dolphins from Amlas, she really is an authority on all things dolphin!

A special shout out to Maya for persuading everyone that this would make the perfect b-day present for me (it absolutely was) and to Atmos- for his amazing dolphin photos. I hope you’re inspired to go tackle that bucket-list! What’s top priority for you?